The Beaten Track

Many, if not most of the Tours that I lead take in the best known sites of a particular country or region. They have to do so. After all, it would be nothing if not eccentric to visit Agra, but not the Taj Mahal; Pisa without the Leaning Tower or Egypt avoiding the pyramids. Without these sites, my clients would feel cheated or short-changed and, let’s be brutally honest, Great Rail Journeys might have some difficulty in running a Tour that offers to show people much less than what they want. Xi’An in China is a really beautiful, exciting and fascinating city but you don’t go there just for the famous traditional dumplings or the evening light-show on the city walls – you go because just down the road is the Terracotta Army.

We tend to stay on the “Beaten Track” for a reason. It’s been beaten, by people like me, because doing so is worth it. The “Beaten Track” sites are the things that first draw you in to a Tour in the brochure, or on the website, but here’s the thing…  Often, the memories that you take home are as much about the people, or experiences that you encounter, as much as the physical objects that you see. Churches, Shrines, Palaces, Temples, Battlefields can all teach you something about the country you are visiting, but to learn something else, visit a Supermarket, Restaurant, Food Market, Cricket stadium or Hairdresser. Italians live happily in and amongst some of the most beautiful architecture in the world, but they also hang their washing out of those ancient windows and park their Vespa leaning against the pillars.

So, if you agree with all this, the question arises as to how best to get the most out of the country that you are visiting? Surely the answer must be that you have to be brave and open your arms to the challenge.  It would be a terrible shame to visit France and dine out on egg and chips every night. The French are justly proud of their cuisine. Some of it is sensational and the odd bit is revolting. Which is which? You won’t know unless you try. Not sure if you’ll likeCoquilles Saint-Jacques orConfit de Canard? You’ll never know for sure if you don’t try, and if there are several of you then you can order a few different items and share between you, safe in the knowledge that if you don’t like it, one of the others will love it.

When I’m away on Tour, even though I’m working, I do my best to sneak away to try and experience something new at least once each time. In Chengdu, China I enjoyed an ear massage (Better than it sounds); in Fez, Morocco I hugged a camel (fragrant); In Washington DC I spent Memorial Day chatting with 50 members of a Veterans Motorcycle Club (Slightly scary but fascinating); In Jaipur, India I was shaved by a Blind Man (Scary). In Sicily I joined a Local wedding (fun); In Salamanca, Spain a bullfight (challenging); In Mongolia I fed and held a Golden Eagle (carefully); In Colorado I went to a Shooting Range and learned how to fire a machine gun, and somewhere in China, I forget where, I ate the local delicacy of Chicken Feet (not as bad as it sounds).

All of these have one thing in common. You can’t do them at home. Some, most, or all of these activities may not be your idea of a great day out, but each one teaches you a little something about life and attitudes in these countries. You may fervently disagree with the 2nd Amendment to the United States Constitution (the right to keep and bear arms) but you’ll be better placed to hold that view if you’ve fired, or at least seen fired, a firearm. That said, I’m not quite certain what I learned from whole Golden Eagle thing except that they are huge, grumpy and you wouldn’t want to upset them. My Moroccan camel was a “beauty” camel, and a very fetching young lady at that with massive eyelashes and wobbly lips (there are also racing, working and breeding camels). Some year ago at the King Abdulaziz Camel Festival in Saudi Arabia, 40 beauty camels were disqualified for using Botox.

I think that it’s important be a little bit brave when stepping off the Beaten Path. You need to be open to having your beliefs and preferences challenged. The world would be a less interesting place if everybody and every culture was the same. Surely, the primary reason for travel is to experience those differences, and thereby arrive at a more balanced set of opinions as to how the world should be? China, Cuba, Mongolia and Vietnam all self-describe as being Communist nations. We are told that Communism is an oppressive and largely unsuccessful form of government (it is) but what is it like to live in such countries for their citizens? The answer is far more nuanced than might be expected and you’re going to have real difficulties appreciating that unless you’ve been there. Most of us have generally warm feelings for the Canadians, finding them courteous, charming and relaxed (they are so); but which group of Canadians? Urban Canadians from the big cities in the East are very different from their brothers and sisters out on the great plains and the prairies. In the East of the country there is a strong and defining French heritage. In the West, the national gaze inclines towards the Pacific Rim countries. French Canadians were dispersed (by the British) from Nova Scotia and eventually ended up ion New Orleans where they became known as Cajuns. I often take my clients on the GRJ Tracks of the Deep South tour to Mulate’s where a live band plays Cajun music, locals are dancing and the food comes from the Bayous. Except… much of it has its’ roots in Canada. Speaking of New Orleans, I wandered into a small bar one afternoon, pulled in by a force of gravity generated by a kind of music that I had never heard before and that compelled my feet to tap. Dwayne Dopsie & the Zydeco Hellraisers were doing things to accordion music that I didn’t know could be done on one of their impromptu and occasional cameo appearances in the city. I didn’t drink any alcohol. I didn’t need to. For 90 minutes I was breathless to discover Zydeco, a kind of music that I knew nothing about but to which I danced, with strangers. It was likely “Dad Dancing” and I for sure embarrassed myself and others standing around me looking on in horror. I just don’t care. I really don’t, and it had to be done. Here’s why…

So, since I’m trying to write for you as elegantly as possible, I should really try to summarise this somewhat eclectic thread of thoughts and ideas. Here’s a checklist of things to consider before you depart.

• Search the web before you leave home for places, foods and activities that challenge you in some way, small or large. Sights, sounds, smells, tastes and sensations are all yours for the taking if you’re brave enough.
• Pre-purchase tickets if necessary. Your Tour Manager can sometimes help you on the day, but not if the event is sold-out.
• Try and visit whatever it may be with a small group of others. There’s safety in numbers and if it all turns out to be a disaster it’s much easier to laugh about it in a group. If it’s a success it’s even better with company.
• Try new foods. Or, to put it another way… Try New Foods!
• Visit a local Supermarket, or, even better, central food market. Apart from a (usually) mouth-watering range of produce that you may never have seen before you’ll see people relaxed, chatting and living their best day-to-day life.
• Learn how to say “Hello”, “Goodbye”, “Please” and “Thank You” as a bare minimum in the local language. These, accompanied by your brightest welcoming number 1 smile are socially programmed to enable a conversation with other humans wherever you may go in the world. Most people are delighted to talk and that’s how you learn. It’s also how you get laid in most places.